In Michelin Stars: The Madness of Perfection (BBC2), food writer William Sitwell asked where the relentless drive to gain and maintain this particular badge of honour is taking the restaurant business.
There is no better example of the destructive pressure of the third star than chef Bernard Loiseau who killed himself in 2003 because he feared he might lose his. The Michelin people had said of his sauces that there was “no fire in the lake”.

